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Old 30-04-2014, 06:51 PM   #736
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not that i'm aware of. they go through pretty easily, but i need to learn how to keep the bit from moving
Are you referring to the bit kind of running away from the center point while you are trying to get the hole going? (there is a name for this happening but it escapes me).
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Old 30-04-2014, 07:03 PM   #737
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Are you referring to the bit kind of running away from the center point while you are trying to get the hole going? (there is a name for this happening but it escapes me).
exactly that. i'm not sure if there's a way to keep it from moving when using a handheld drill
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Old 30-04-2014, 07:14 PM   #738
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exactly that. i'm not sure if there's a way to keep it from moving when using a handheld drill
What I've read is that using a center punch (people seem to prefer the spring loaded ones) will give a helping hand to keeping the drill on mark when you are trying to get started. Some even seem to do a center punch, then a small drill bit just for a pilot hole, the the step bit.
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Old 30-04-2014, 07:56 PM   #739
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Yeah using a center punch is the way forward.
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Just was playing that guitar, and i think a pickup change is in order. you know something's wrong when a guitar makes an OR120 sound as thin as green screen kid looks...
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Old 01-05-2014, 10:12 PM   #740
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not that i'm aware of. they go through pretty easily, but i need to learn how to keep the bit from moving
Centre punch is the way forward, or get a drill bit the size of minimum flute diameter of the drill bit being used to drill and run it in reverse. As the drill bit is running in reverse it won't grab and run off but as aluminium is soft it will leave an indent! Then drill away!

Or if your me you use the CNC machine you built in your shed
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Old 03-05-2014, 06:50 PM   #741
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doesn't work as well as i'd hoped, but can it SMBH?

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Old 03-05-2014, 11:14 PM   #742
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Why doesn't it work as well as you hoped, sounds like it controls the volume just fine?
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Old 04-05-2014, 09:37 AM   #743
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it does, but there's some signal bleed when bypassed (though it's not too noticeable)
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Old 24-05-2014, 06:29 PM   #744
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any thoughts on the kaossilator pro? Never really looked into it, but I've got the KP3+ now, and wondering if this is worth getting too
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Old 11-06-2014, 12:27 AM   #745
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Hm, almost seems too good to be true considering it's new and 100 off retail.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-KORG-K...item19ee9f803e
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Old 11-06-2014, 11:12 AM   #746
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any thoughts on the kaossilator pro? Never really looked into it, but I've got the KP3+ now, and wondering if this is worth getting too
if you're rocking axe fx, i would say get the kaosillator and skip the KP3+ to be honest. Some point I'm going to route my XY controller to one of the parameters for the AXE FX (seriously the axe fx is amazingly flexible) and do crazy changes on it.
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Old 11-06-2014, 12:07 PM   #747
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if you're rocking axe fx, i would say get the kaosillator and skip the KP3+ to be honest. Some point I'm going to route my XY controller to one of the parameters for the AXE FX (seriously the axe fx is amazingly flexible) and do crazy changes on it.
What do you tend to do with the Kaossilator? I don't think I've used mine much to be honest. That said, I don't use the Kaoss Pad that much either really, but more than the Kaossilator. Should probably spend some time with them at some point. I think my main problem with the Kaoss is that I always have it set to 100% wet and it's far too extreme. I reckon if I rolled that back a bit, I could get some nice background effects going maybe. Will have to give it a try.
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That was a bit anticlimactic. Can't you be a little more like Bs?
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Old 11-06-2014, 08:16 PM   #748
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if you're rocking axe fx, i would say get the kaosillator and skip the KP3+ to be honest. Some point I'm going to route my XY controller to one of the parameters for the AXE FX (seriously the axe fx is amazingly flexible) and do crazy changes on it.
This is good for this application. Axe FX has a huge range of midi-contr parameters.
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Old 29-09-2014, 11:44 PM   #749
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it does, but there's some signal bleed when bypassed (though it's not too noticeable)
So... I'm revisiting this idea after someone brought it up the other day.

First, I bought a center punch as I don't want to ruin these nice polished enclosures... so that's sorted... but as far as the internals go, what pot value should I be using? I understand for the effects loop, it should be 25 to 50k (I think I was using a 500k before as it's just what I had lying around)

So the function is basically

Completely bypassed (unless it's like the last one which had some sort of signal bleed...)

OR

kaoss pad switched in, but with an added volume control after it... same idea as putting a volume pedal directly after the KP I guess, but you can switch both of them out at the same time

In other words:

amp FX loop send > KP line in > KP line out > volume control > amp FX loop return

Or is that not the best way to do it?
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Old 30-09-2014, 12:36 PM   #750
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I've got the KP3+ now
Any difference in performance with the normal KP3, apart from a few new effects and a 9V power supply instead of 12V? I can't see it being worth the money already having the KP3, but just intrigued as to what's actually different.
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That was a bit anticlimactic. Can't you be a little more like Bs?
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