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Old 05-10-2016, 03:13 PM   #3796
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Originally Posted by james90 View Post
http://www2.fender.com/experience/te...-skunk-stripe/

It's not too bad anyway, but I'm not sure how one would repair something like this.
Aw. Maybe you can try calling the manager of the store and see if you can get a partial refund. (My first guitar was a Guitar Center used - the ad was for a $300 Epi LP Standard Plus but they only sent me an LP Standard, so I called and got a $100 check from them a couple weeks later.) So what's this new guitar?

I feel like I need fretwork, but I'm not entirely sure what I need. Can someone take a quick look to see how much I should expect to pay depending on the work needed? The upper frets of the 13 year old LP look like they're just flat. The guitar is pretty hard to bend. The Cort, which is only about 10 months old, isn't looking too good either though.

Les Paul:


Cort:

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Old 05-10-2016, 03:42 PM   #3797
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Originally Posted by Cider View Post
Aw. Maybe you can try calling the manager of the store and see if you can get a partial refund. (My first guitar was a Guitar Center used - the ad was for a $300 Epi LP Standard Plus but they only sent me an LP Standard, so I called and got a $100 check from them a couple weeks later.) So what's this new guitar?

I feel like I need fretwork, but I'm not entirely sure what I need. Can someone take a quick look to see how much I should expect to pay depending on the work needed? The upper frets of the 13 year old LP look like they're just flat. The guitar is pretty hard to bend. The Cort, which is only about 10 months old, isn't looking too good either though.

Les Paul:


Cort:
Nothing. Just a neck.

I can't tell with the cort, but my LP DC has the same flat fret tops. I think it's actually done that way at the factory by machine or something.

And it depends who you take it to.

Supposedly adjusting the tail piece can change the string tension, but I just set it a certain way (strings barely clearing the back of the bridge) and leave it.
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Old 05-10-2016, 05:39 PM   #3798
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Nothing. Just a neck.

I can't tell with the cort, but my LP DC has the same flat fret tops. I think it's actually done that way at the factory by machine or something.

And it depends who you take it to.

Supposedly adjusting the tail piece can change the string tension, but I just set it a certain way (strings barely clearing the back of the bridge) and leave it.
That's good to know, thank you James. How does your DC play? I think the fretboard of mine kinda shrunk too, since the fret ends hurt

I've never tried adjusting the tailpiece before - had no idea what it actually does. Could you show me a quick pic of what that looks like?
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Old 05-10-2016, 07:26 PM   #3799
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The Cort looks like it needs a fret dress, nothing more. Not that great though considering it's fairly new. The LP looks fine, they always had very low wide frets from day one, that's one of the reasons I don't dig them.

James, is the skunk stripe sticking up above the neck? I have that issue in an old neck I've stored for a while. Nothing a quick rub down and respray won't fix in my case, not sure what you'd do with yours given it's likely a poly finish? You could live with it, but i'd return it as you never know what caused it. At least I know it wasn't caused by the truss rod being over-tightened.

Is this neck destined for the Bru-Caster?
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Old 06-10-2016, 07:14 AM   #3800
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James, is the skunk stripe sticking up above the neck? I have that issue in an old neck I've stored for a while. Nothing a quick rub down and respray won't fix in my case, not sure what you'd do with yours given it's likely a poly finish? You could live with it, but i'd return it as you never know what caused it. At least I know it wasn't caused by the truss rod being over-tightened.

Is this neck destined for the Bru-Caster?
Yeah, but just barely. It's actually a satin finish (older U.S. standard neck) but would I have to refinish the entire neck?

I don't want to return it since it included a body (which I might or might not have been aware of) and was priced right. And I imagine you mean because the truss rod puts pressure against the fretboard side, rather than the back of the neck?

It's one of those two way truss rods (bi flex or whatever they call them), but I checked and it was tightened in the direction for less relief, and needed to go further in that direction.

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That's good to know, thank you James. How does your DC play? I think the fretboard of mine kinda shrunk too, since the fret ends hurt

I've never tried adjusting the tailpiece before - had no idea what it actually does. Could you show me a quick pic of what that looks like?
Plays nicely I guess. And yeah I'll take one later, but I understand that you generally want to raise the tailpiece just enough so that the strings clear the back of the bridge and are not resting on the edge.

edit:

a bit like this

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Old 06-10-2016, 11:39 PM   #3801
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The Cort looks like it needs a fret dress, nothing more. Not that great though considering it's fairly new. The LP looks fine, they always had very low wide frets from day one, that's one of the reasons I don't dig them.
Thank you Jaicen. I never played with that many new LPs so I had no idea the frets are flat from day one The Cort is a bit disappointing, right, considering how new it is?

There seems to be a local person who does "Full FRET LEVEL done in the neck jig" for $100 - I'm guessing that this is the fret dressing you're talking about Jaicen?

Quote:
Originally Posted by james90 View Post
Plays nicely I guess. And yeah I'll take one later, but I understand that you generally want to raise the tailpiece just enough so that the strings clear the back of the bridge and are not resting on the edge.

edit:

a bit like this

Thanks for the picture James. Wow, I never knew you're supposed to set the TOM like that. That action must be really high? I just screw the tailpiece all the way down and my bridge is really low, that must be why there's so much string tension against the frets
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Old 07-10-2016, 07:11 AM   #3802
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The idea is the bridge is as low as possible without fretting out, and the tailpiece should be set so there only just enough tension on the strings to stop them moving around on the saddles. Screwing it onto the body is just going to stress the anchors making it more likely to pull the studs out.
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Old 07-10-2016, 07:35 AM   #3803
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Thanks for the picture James. Wow, I never knew you're supposed to set the TOM like that. That action must be really high? I just screw the tailpiece all the way down and my bridge is really low, that must be why there's so much string tension against the frets
No the action depends on the bridge itself. Mine looks a bit like that picture, and it's actually lower than I'm used to, but it plays fine anyway.

And I thought that's because you put 12s on it.

Quote:
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The idea is the bridge is as low as possible without fretting out, and the tailpiece should be set so there only just enough tension on the strings to stop them moving around on the saddles. Screwing it onto the body is just going to stress the anchors making it more likely to pull the studs out.
yeah that

But I don't set them as low as possible without fretting out. I just go by fairly standard measurements, but they're never exact. Still close enough to not really notice a difference switching between guitars though.
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Old 07-10-2016, 01:38 PM   #3804
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James, is the skunk stripe sticking up above the neck? I have that issue in an old neck I've stored for a while. Nothing a quick rub down and respray won't fix in my case, not sure what you'd do with yours given it's likely a poly finish? You could live with it, but i'd return it as you never know what caused it. At least I know it wasn't caused by the truss rod being over-tightened.

Is this neck destined for the Bru-Caster?
Got around to setting this up. Truss rod seems to be rattling... that or it's a ghost, as I've checked everything else on the guitar (inside and out)

What do I do now? I could replace the neck, but this one is a different spec from the usual ones.
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Old 07-10-2016, 02:05 PM   #3805
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My guess is the neck is junked, I'd send it Back.
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Old 07-10-2016, 02:11 PM   #3806
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Fucks sake. Not what I wanted to hear.

I would think something like this can be repaired though. One of those Ovations had a similar problem, although it didn't actually rattle. If I loosened the truss rod all the way, and turned the guitar upside down, it would slide right out Which it wasn't supposed to do...

It's been repaired, so I don't see why this couldn't be sorted in a similar way.
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Old 07-10-2016, 03:21 PM   #3807
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The idea is the bridge is as low as possible without fretting out, and the tailpiece should be set so there only just enough tension on the strings to stop them moving around on the saddles. Screwing it onto the body is just going to stress the anchors making it more likely to pull the studs out.
Thanks so much Jaicen and james. I had no idea the tailpiece was supposed to be set up that way. The quick guitar setup guide from Sam Ash didn't mention it Now that I'm looking at it, the saddles on my Gotoh bridges look kinda worn, probably from the incorrect setup of the tailpieces. 'll spend the weekend re-adjusting the 2 guitars so I don't mess them up more.

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No the action depends on the bridge itself. Mine looks a bit like that picture, and it's actually lower than I'm used to, but it plays fine anyway.

And I thought that's because you put 12s on it.



yeah that

But I don't set them as low as possible without fretting out. I just go by fairly standard measurements, but they're never exact. Still close enough to not really notice a difference switching between guitars though.
I did put 12s on it to mess around for a couple weeks, but I switched back to 10s after my boyfriend wanted to learn something. That didn't go anywhere though

What does fretting out mean?
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Old 07-10-2016, 03:40 PM   #3808
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I don't think having the tailpiece too low would damage the bridge. And don't trust sam ash for advice on a guitar setup.

Get this.

http://www.stewmac.com/How-To/Books/...lay_Great.html

and it just means that the strings aren't ringing properly.
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Old 07-10-2016, 05:57 PM   #3809
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I guess you could sort it, but ask yourself if it is worth the hassle, time and money that you could potentially put toward a new neck that's isn't doa?
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Old 08-10-2016, 11:18 AM   #3810
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I guess you could sort it, but ask yourself if it is worth the hassle, time and money that you could potentially put toward a new neck that's isn't doa?
It depends. I thought the machine heads were tightened all the way (especially because I tightened them when I got the guitar), but apparently they weren't. Not sure if that was the cause though (haven't put the strings back on)

With the machine heads removed, I didn't hear anything when I knocked it with my hand. Tried shaking it as well, but there wasn't any noise. So it's either just barely rattling, or it was the machine heads.

Also, this is sort of cool. I wouldn't buy one though - really don't like how short scales feel... but the colour....

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